Once a fish shows the whirling symptoms, it is best disposed of. The disease itself is not very virulent and is fairly rare.
Whirling Disease
Once a fish shows the whirling symptoms, it is best disposed of. The disease itself is not very virulent and is fairly rare.
Anchor Worm
There are many small crustaceans (copepods) which are parasitic on fishes in one stage of their development. None of them are really important to the tropical fish fancier for they don't do too much damage. There is, however, a copepod belonging to the family Lernaeidae which warrants discussion. This crustacean looks more like a worm than a crustacean, but in its larval stages it manifests greater likeness to the copepods than to the trematodes.
The lernaceids, or Anchor Worms, have two free swimming stages in their life history. The first free swimming stage is right after they hatch from the eggs and they are called "nauplii." This is when they become parasitic upon the fish. After they have developed awhile they go through another stage and again become free swimming. Thi is the stage of maturity where they go about seeking a mate in order to reproduce.
Many species of anchor worms are known, but the species most familiar to aquarists is the fish parasite Lernaea carassii, named after the goldfish upon which it favors to develop. This parasite, like other anchor worms, attaches itself to the body of the host, either in the gills or any place on the body (or inside the mouth in some cases). In time it bores into the flesh of the host and sucks the blood from the small capillaries in the tissues of the fish. Soon afterwords teh familiar "bumps" and "tumors" show up.
Fortunately enough for tropical fish hobbyists the worms are large enough to be seen with the naked eye, and since the fish can be easily netted and handled all that must be done is to remove the worms from the fish's body. This can be done in either of two manners: one way is to prick the "tumor" and remove the worm with the needle. If the "tumor" is too tough, swab it with some salt first; other hobbyists prefer to "tweeze" the worm and tumor out all at once. We prefer the needle treatment for it seems that the "worm" will come loose once the capsule is broken and the entire organism can then be removed. The area should be swabbed with some peroxide or mercurochrome after the worm is removed.
There is no method other than the mechanical technique mentioned above to rid the fish of these worms.
Scientific literature intimates that different species of fishes play host to different species of anchor worms; this might well be the case, but the author has maintained aquaria where infected guppies were placed in with healthy goldfish and swordtails, and it wasn't three weeks before all the fishes had anchor worms on them.
The lernaceids, or Anchor Worms, have two free swimming stages in their life history. The first free swimming stage is right after they hatch from the eggs and they are called "nauplii." This is when they become parasitic upon the fish. After they have developed awhile they go through another stage and again become free swimming. Thi is the stage of maturity where they go about seeking a mate in order to reproduce.
Many species of anchor worms are known, but the species most familiar to aquarists is the fish parasite Lernaea carassii, named after the goldfish upon which it favors to develop. This parasite, like other anchor worms, attaches itself to the body of the host, either in the gills or any place on the body (or inside the mouth in some cases). In time it bores into the flesh of the host and sucks the blood from the small capillaries in the tissues of the fish. Soon afterwords teh familiar "bumps" and "tumors" show up.
Fortunately enough for tropical fish hobbyists the worms are large enough to be seen with the naked eye, and since the fish can be easily netted and handled all that must be done is to remove the worms from the fish's body. This can be done in either of two manners: one way is to prick the "tumor" and remove the worm with the needle. If the "tumor" is too tough, swab it with some salt first; other hobbyists prefer to "tweeze" the worm and tumor out all at once. We prefer the needle treatment for it seems that the "worm" will come loose once the capsule is broken and the entire organism can then be removed. The area should be swabbed with some peroxide or mercurochrome after the worm is removed.
There is no method other than the mechanical technique mentioned above to rid the fish of these worms.
Scientific literature intimates that different species of fishes play host to different species of anchor worms; this might well be the case, but the author has maintained aquaria where infected guppies were placed in with healthy goldfish and swordtails, and it wasn't three weeks before all the fishes had anchor worms on them.
Neon Disease
The inclusion of this disease in a booklet of this sort is fairly important. Actually the disease is nearly impossible to cure without certain drugs which are very difficult to obtain (as they are so very expensive). The drugs used are the same that are used for human tuberculosis infections.
Neon disease is really a tuberculosis and the organism closely resembles the germ which causes TB in humans (though humans could never contract the disease from infected fishes.) There being no treatment of the disease, and the infection being a typical "wasting away" disease, so we'd warn readers not to buy infected fish. You can recognize an infected Neon Tetra by closely observing the caudal peduncle (the part of the body right before the tail). Note that this area, on an infected fish, will bear two pale yellowish dots. At times these dots are difficult to see, but on larger fish they are quite distinct.
Neon disease is really a tuberculosis and the organism closely resembles the germ which causes TB in humans (though humans could never contract the disease from infected fishes.) There being no treatment of the disease, and the infection being a typical "wasting away" disease, so we'd warn readers not to buy infected fish. You can recognize an infected Neon Tetra by closely observing the caudal peduncle (the part of the body right before the tail). Note that this area, on an infected fish, will bear two pale yellowish dots. At times these dots are difficult to see, but on larger fish they are quite distinct.
Gill Disease
There are a few disease of the gills of fishes which can all be clumped into one group. "Bacterial gill disease," caused by myxobateria, is common in every hatchery and wholesale supply house and, unfortunately, there is little done to assist the fish.
Symptomatically the fish infected first become sluggish and refuse to eas. Then the gills become slimy. This sliminess is hard to see under ordinary circumstances, but soon the slime becomes so thick that bits of debris from the water become adhered to the film and it can be seen to stick out from the gills as a sort of streamer of slime. If a fish is closely examined its gill filaments will be noted to have a swollen and congested appearance until finally they get a deep red. Past this stage the gill filaments become thickened at their extremities and get very pale. Once the disease has advanced this far the gills usually become fungused. The fungus infection will ordinarily attack the gills first and then spread over the head. It is difficult to save the fish once it reaches this stage.
Treatment is simple if the disease is discovered in its initial stages. Terramycin or Tetracyn, 500 mg. per 5 gallons of water each day for 5 days will easily control the bacteria. Keep the infected fish under antibiotic treatment for two weeks. Some workers have advised the use of copper sulfate solution (1:2,000) in which the fish are bathed for 30 seconds. Twice a day for two days. This is not to be recommended for smaller fishes as the copper sulfate is poisonous to them. PMA (pyridylmercuric acetate technical) can be used and a 30 minute bath in a 1:400,000 solution is sufficient.
Symptomatically the fish infected first become sluggish and refuse to eas. Then the gills become slimy. This sliminess is hard to see under ordinary circumstances, but soon the slime becomes so thick that bits of debris from the water become adhered to the film and it can be seen to stick out from the gills as a sort of streamer of slime. If a fish is closely examined its gill filaments will be noted to have a swollen and congested appearance until finally they get a deep red. Past this stage the gill filaments become thickened at their extremities and get very pale. Once the disease has advanced this far the gills usually become fungused. The fungus infection will ordinarily attack the gills first and then spread over the head. It is difficult to save the fish once it reaches this stage.
Treatment is simple if the disease is discovered in its initial stages. Terramycin or Tetracyn, 500 mg. per 5 gallons of water each day for 5 days will easily control the bacteria. Keep the infected fish under antibiotic treatment for two weeks. Some workers have advised the use of copper sulfate solution (1:2,000) in which the fish are bathed for 30 seconds. Twice a day for two days. This is not to be recommended for smaller fishes as the copper sulfate is poisonous to them. PMA (pyridylmercuric acetate technical) can be used and a 30 minute bath in a 1:400,000 solution is sufficient.
Finrot and Tailrot
A generalized scheme for treatment has been worked out: one aspect handles the bacterial infection, the other the fungus attack. Use 100 mg. of Terramycin
or Tetracyn per gallon of water every day for 5 days and at the same time add 2 drops of 5% aqueous solution of methylene blue
per gallon. This should control the disease.If possible, and the disease has not progressed too far, cut off the infected part of the fin, a little past the line of demarkaton of the rot (take off some of the uninfected fin), but be sure that it is only the fin you are cutting and not the body of the fish. Once the diseased portion of the fin has been cut away if is a simple matter to treat the fish with antibiotic and the methylene blue and to bring it back to health. The fins which are cut away will regenerate themselves and the fish will be normal once again.
Parasites
Internal parasites of fishes, such as worms and protozoans, are impossible to identify unless the individual is specifically trained in this sort of work. Fishes as a whole show none of the obvious symptoms of bacterial infections and a sign of gradual thinness and wasting away is the only sign of internal parasitism. To treat the parasites as a whole is the only feasible method of control for the average hobbyist.
Interestingly enough, the majority of trematode (worm) infections come from snails (both human and fish infections owe the snail host their thanks for carrying this disease to them.) In order to control the disease all that needs to be done is to remove all snails. This is easily done in the aquarium by removing all the fish and plants and by adding chlorine to the water. Calcium hypochlorite (HTH) and copper sulfate also kill snails. Use plenty of the chemicals and wash the aquarium out thoroughly before using again. Be sure there are no snail eggs on the plants.
Most hobbyists refer to fishes that waste away as having "tuberculosis".
Large Parasites
Only a few parasites visible to the unaided eye ordinarily attack fishes. These include fish lice (Argulus), leeches, anchor worms (Lernaea), and grub worms (Clinostomum). Most of these parasites will be found on pond fish or aquarium fish recently brought in from ponds. They can also be introduced on plants, pond water or poorly cleaned live food. In nature these parasites are rarely serious causes of illness but in confined quarters they can overpower the fish.
Small Parasites
Two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. These are Dactylogyrus (gill flukes) and Gyrodactylus (skin flukes). Both organisms are directly transmitted from one fish to the other and the rate of transmission is partially dependent on crowding. The affected fish will have a shimmying behavior and will be seen scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen; at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover.
Protozoa
Ichthyopthirium multifiliis is the name of a protozoan parasite which is the cause of the most common fish disease, "Ich". This is a unique infection in that it is usually fatal if untreated, yet is probably the most easily cured of all fish afflictions.
Interestingly enough, the majority of trematode (worm) infections come from snails (both human and fish infections owe the snail host their thanks for carrying this disease to them.) In order to control the disease all that needs to be done is to remove all snails. This is easily done in the aquarium by removing all the fish and plants and by adding chlorine to the water. Calcium hypochlorite (HTH) and copper sulfate also kill snails. Use plenty of the chemicals and wash the aquarium out thoroughly before using again. Be sure there are no snail eggs on the plants.
Most hobbyists refer to fishes that waste away as having "tuberculosis".
Large Parasites
Only a few parasites visible to the unaided eye ordinarily attack fishes. These include fish lice (Argulus), leeches, anchor worms (Lernaea), and grub worms (Clinostomum). Most of these parasites will be found on pond fish or aquarium fish recently brought in from ponds. They can also be introduced on plants, pond water or poorly cleaned live food. In nature these parasites are rarely serious causes of illness but in confined quarters they can overpower the fish.
Small Parasites
Two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. These are Dactylogyrus (gill flukes) and Gyrodactylus (skin flukes). Both organisms are directly transmitted from one fish to the other and the rate of transmission is partially dependent on crowding. The affected fish will have a shimmying behavior and will be seen scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen; at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover.
Protozoa
Ichthyopthirium multifiliis is the name of a protozoan parasite which is the cause of the most common fish disease, "Ich". This is a unique infection in that it is usually fatal if untreated, yet is probably the most easily cured of all fish afflictions.
Tuberculosis
More than one species of bacteria can cause this disease in fish. They are called "acid-fast" bacteria because of special staining characteristics. They are difficult to stain with certain dyes but resist decolonization with acid. A human disease known as "swimming pool granuloma" is similar to the ulcer type of fish tuberculosis. The name indicates where the disease is usually acquired, generally as the result of a swimmer scraping himself on the side of a contaminated pool. The condition is not serious in humans, and consists only of a slowly healing sore on the skin. It never progresses to the internal organs. For practical purposes the fish disease is not transmittable to humans.
There is no satisfactory treatment for this condition in fish. The usual antibiotics which are effective against human tuberculosis seem to have little effect against the fish disease. An infected tank is also very difficult to sterilize after the sick fish are removed. The affected fish should preferably be destroyed and the contaminated tank disinfected and sterilized.
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