Once a fish shows the whirling symptoms, it is best disposed of. The disease itself is not very virulent and is fairly rare.
Whirling Disease
Once a fish shows the whirling symptoms, it is best disposed of. The disease itself is not very virulent and is fairly rare.
Anchor Worm
There are many small crustaceans (copepods) which are parasitic on fishes in one stage of their development. None of them are really important to the tropical fish fancier for they don't do too much damage. There is, however, a copepod belonging to the family Lernaeidae which warrants discussion. This crustacean looks more like a worm than a crustacean, but in its larval stages it manifests greater likeness to the copepods than to the trematodes.
The lernaceids, or Anchor Worms, have two free swimming stages in their life history. The first free swimming stage is right after they hatch from the eggs and they are called "nauplii." This is when they become parasitic upon the fish. After they have developed awhile they go through another stage and again become free swimming. Thi is the stage of maturity where they go about seeking a mate in order to reproduce.
Many species of anchor worms are known, but the species most familiar to aquarists is the fish parasite Lernaea carassii, named after the goldfish upon which it favors to develop. This parasite, like other anchor worms, attaches itself to the body of the host, either in the gills or any place on the body (or inside the mouth in some cases). In time it bores into the flesh of the host and sucks the blood from the small capillaries in the tissues of the fish. Soon afterwords teh familiar "bumps" and "tumors" show up.
Fortunately enough for tropical fish hobbyists the worms are large enough to be seen with the naked eye, and since the fish can be easily netted and handled all that must be done is to remove the worms from the fish's body. This can be done in either of two manners: one way is to prick the "tumor" and remove the worm with the needle. If the "tumor" is too tough, swab it with some salt first; other hobbyists prefer to "tweeze" the worm and tumor out all at once. We prefer the needle treatment for it seems that the "worm" will come loose once the capsule is broken and the entire organism can then be removed. The area should be swabbed with some peroxide or mercurochrome after the worm is removed.
There is no method other than the mechanical technique mentioned above to rid the fish of these worms.
Scientific literature intimates that different species of fishes play host to different species of anchor worms; this might well be the case, but the author has maintained aquaria where infected guppies were placed in with healthy goldfish and swordtails, and it wasn't three weeks before all the fishes had anchor worms on them.
The lernaceids, or Anchor Worms, have two free swimming stages in their life history. The first free swimming stage is right after they hatch from the eggs and they are called "nauplii." This is when they become parasitic upon the fish. After they have developed awhile they go through another stage and again become free swimming. Thi is the stage of maturity where they go about seeking a mate in order to reproduce.
Many species of anchor worms are known, but the species most familiar to aquarists is the fish parasite Lernaea carassii, named after the goldfish upon which it favors to develop. This parasite, like other anchor worms, attaches itself to the body of the host, either in the gills or any place on the body (or inside the mouth in some cases). In time it bores into the flesh of the host and sucks the blood from the small capillaries in the tissues of the fish. Soon afterwords teh familiar "bumps" and "tumors" show up.
Fortunately enough for tropical fish hobbyists the worms are large enough to be seen with the naked eye, and since the fish can be easily netted and handled all that must be done is to remove the worms from the fish's body. This can be done in either of two manners: one way is to prick the "tumor" and remove the worm with the needle. If the "tumor" is too tough, swab it with some salt first; other hobbyists prefer to "tweeze" the worm and tumor out all at once. We prefer the needle treatment for it seems that the "worm" will come loose once the capsule is broken and the entire organism can then be removed. The area should be swabbed with some peroxide or mercurochrome after the worm is removed.
There is no method other than the mechanical technique mentioned above to rid the fish of these worms.
Scientific literature intimates that different species of fishes play host to different species of anchor worms; this might well be the case, but the author has maintained aquaria where infected guppies were placed in with healthy goldfish and swordtails, and it wasn't three weeks before all the fishes had anchor worms on them.
Neon Disease
The inclusion of this disease in a booklet of this sort is fairly important. Actually the disease is nearly impossible to cure without certain drugs which are very difficult to obtain (as they are so very expensive). The drugs used are the same that are used for human tuberculosis infections.
Neon disease is really a tuberculosis and the organism closely resembles the germ which causes TB in humans (though humans could never contract the disease from infected fishes.) There being no treatment of the disease, and the infection being a typical "wasting away" disease, so we'd warn readers not to buy infected fish. You can recognize an infected Neon Tetra by closely observing the caudal peduncle (the part of the body right before the tail). Note that this area, on an infected fish, will bear two pale yellowish dots. At times these dots are difficult to see, but on larger fish they are quite distinct.
Neon disease is really a tuberculosis and the organism closely resembles the germ which causes TB in humans (though humans could never contract the disease from infected fishes.) There being no treatment of the disease, and the infection being a typical "wasting away" disease, so we'd warn readers not to buy infected fish. You can recognize an infected Neon Tetra by closely observing the caudal peduncle (the part of the body right before the tail). Note that this area, on an infected fish, will bear two pale yellowish dots. At times these dots are difficult to see, but on larger fish they are quite distinct.
Gill Disease
There are a few disease of the gills of fishes which can all be clumped into one group. "Bacterial gill disease," caused by myxobateria, is common in every hatchery and wholesale supply house and, unfortunately, there is little done to assist the fish.
Symptomatically the fish infected first become sluggish and refuse to eas. Then the gills become slimy. This sliminess is hard to see under ordinary circumstances, but soon the slime becomes so thick that bits of debris from the water become adhered to the film and it can be seen to stick out from the gills as a sort of streamer of slime. If a fish is closely examined its gill filaments will be noted to have a swollen and congested appearance until finally they get a deep red. Past this stage the gill filaments become thickened at their extremities and get very pale. Once the disease has advanced this far the gills usually become fungused. The fungus infection will ordinarily attack the gills first and then spread over the head. It is difficult to save the fish once it reaches this stage.
Treatment is simple if the disease is discovered in its initial stages. Terramycin or Tetracyn, 500 mg. per 5 gallons of water each day for 5 days will easily control the bacteria. Keep the infected fish under antibiotic treatment for two weeks. Some workers have advised the use of copper sulfate solution (1:2,000) in which the fish are bathed for 30 seconds. Twice a day for two days. This is not to be recommended for smaller fishes as the copper sulfate is poisonous to them. PMA (pyridylmercuric acetate technical) can be used and a 30 minute bath in a 1:400,000 solution is sufficient.
Symptomatically the fish infected first become sluggish and refuse to eas. Then the gills become slimy. This sliminess is hard to see under ordinary circumstances, but soon the slime becomes so thick that bits of debris from the water become adhered to the film and it can be seen to stick out from the gills as a sort of streamer of slime. If a fish is closely examined its gill filaments will be noted to have a swollen and congested appearance until finally they get a deep red. Past this stage the gill filaments become thickened at their extremities and get very pale. Once the disease has advanced this far the gills usually become fungused. The fungus infection will ordinarily attack the gills first and then spread over the head. It is difficult to save the fish once it reaches this stage.
Treatment is simple if the disease is discovered in its initial stages. Terramycin or Tetracyn, 500 mg. per 5 gallons of water each day for 5 days will easily control the bacteria. Keep the infected fish under antibiotic treatment for two weeks. Some workers have advised the use of copper sulfate solution (1:2,000) in which the fish are bathed for 30 seconds. Twice a day for two days. This is not to be recommended for smaller fishes as the copper sulfate is poisonous to them. PMA (pyridylmercuric acetate technical) can be used and a 30 minute bath in a 1:400,000 solution is sufficient.
Finrot and Tailrot
A generalized scheme for treatment has been worked out: one aspect handles the bacterial infection, the other the fungus attack. Use 100 mg. of Terramycin
or Tetracyn per gallon of water every day for 5 days and at the same time add 2 drops of 5% aqueous solution of methylene blue
per gallon. This should control the disease.If possible, and the disease has not progressed too far, cut off the infected part of the fin, a little past the line of demarkaton of the rot (take off some of the uninfected fin), but be sure that it is only the fin you are cutting and not the body of the fish. Once the diseased portion of the fin has been cut away if is a simple matter to treat the fish with antibiotic and the methylene blue and to bring it back to health. The fins which are cut away will regenerate themselves and the fish will be normal once again.
Parasites
Internal parasites of fishes, such as worms and protozoans, are impossible to identify unless the individual is specifically trained in this sort of work. Fishes as a whole show none of the obvious symptoms of bacterial infections and a sign of gradual thinness and wasting away is the only sign of internal parasitism. To treat the parasites as a whole is the only feasible method of control for the average hobbyist.
Interestingly enough, the majority of trematode (worm) infections come from snails (both human and fish infections owe the snail host their thanks for carrying this disease to them.) In order to control the disease all that needs to be done is to remove all snails. This is easily done in the aquarium by removing all the fish and plants and by adding chlorine to the water. Calcium hypochlorite (HTH) and copper sulfate also kill snails. Use plenty of the chemicals and wash the aquarium out thoroughly before using again. Be sure there are no snail eggs on the plants.
Most hobbyists refer to fishes that waste away as having "tuberculosis".
Large Parasites
Only a few parasites visible to the unaided eye ordinarily attack fishes. These include fish lice (Argulus), leeches, anchor worms (Lernaea), and grub worms (Clinostomum). Most of these parasites will be found on pond fish or aquarium fish recently brought in from ponds. They can also be introduced on plants, pond water or poorly cleaned live food. In nature these parasites are rarely serious causes of illness but in confined quarters they can overpower the fish.
Small Parasites
Two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. These are Dactylogyrus (gill flukes) and Gyrodactylus (skin flukes). Both organisms are directly transmitted from one fish to the other and the rate of transmission is partially dependent on crowding. The affected fish will have a shimmying behavior and will be seen scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen; at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover.
Protozoa
Ichthyopthirium multifiliis is the name of a protozoan parasite which is the cause of the most common fish disease, "Ich". This is a unique infection in that it is usually fatal if untreated, yet is probably the most easily cured of all fish afflictions.
Interestingly enough, the majority of trematode (worm) infections come from snails (both human and fish infections owe the snail host their thanks for carrying this disease to them.) In order to control the disease all that needs to be done is to remove all snails. This is easily done in the aquarium by removing all the fish and plants and by adding chlorine to the water. Calcium hypochlorite (HTH) and copper sulfate also kill snails. Use plenty of the chemicals and wash the aquarium out thoroughly before using again. Be sure there are no snail eggs on the plants.
Most hobbyists refer to fishes that waste away as having "tuberculosis".
Large Parasites
Only a few parasites visible to the unaided eye ordinarily attack fishes. These include fish lice (Argulus), leeches, anchor worms (Lernaea), and grub worms (Clinostomum). Most of these parasites will be found on pond fish or aquarium fish recently brought in from ponds. They can also be introduced on plants, pond water or poorly cleaned live food. In nature these parasites are rarely serious causes of illness but in confined quarters they can overpower the fish.
Small Parasites
Two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. These are Dactylogyrus (gill flukes) and Gyrodactylus (skin flukes). Both organisms are directly transmitted from one fish to the other and the rate of transmission is partially dependent on crowding. The affected fish will have a shimmying behavior and will be seen scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen; at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover.
Protozoa
Ichthyopthirium multifiliis is the name of a protozoan parasite which is the cause of the most common fish disease, "Ich". This is a unique infection in that it is usually fatal if untreated, yet is probably the most easily cured of all fish afflictions.
Tuberculosis
More than one species of bacteria can cause this disease in fish. They are called "acid-fast" bacteria because of special staining characteristics. They are difficult to stain with certain dyes but resist decolonization with acid. A human disease known as "swimming pool granuloma" is similar to the ulcer type of fish tuberculosis. The name indicates where the disease is usually acquired, generally as the result of a swimmer scraping himself on the side of a contaminated pool. The condition is not serious in humans, and consists only of a slowly healing sore on the skin. It never progresses to the internal organs. For practical purposes the fish disease is not transmittable to humans.
There is no satisfactory treatment for this condition in fish. The usual antibiotics which are effective against human tuberculosis seem to have little effect against the fish disease. An infected tank is also very difficult to sterilize after the sick fish are removed. The affected fish should preferably be destroyed and the contaminated tank disinfected and sterilized.
Bacterial Diseases
A number of bacteria are known to infect fish causing conditions such as fin and tail rot, ulcer disease and furunculosis, and gill infections. Among these are Myxobacteria (slime bacteria), and bacteria in the genera Pseudomonas, Aeromonas, and Hemophilus among others. The hobbyist usually finds it difficult to tell these infections apart and cannot isolate and identify the causative organism. The therapy of the infection is similar however so the differences are not too important for practical purposes. Myxobacteria are responsible for an infection in the mouths of fishes which has been misnamed "Mouth fungus" and also cause a condition called Columnaris disease which is due to an infection by a bacterium, Cytophaga columnaris.
The features which most bacterial infections have in common are ulcers (open sores) on the skin, fins and mouth, internal abscesses, and increase mucus on the skin and gills. These skin ulcers are like the top of an iceberg in that they give only a clue to the marked infection inside the body of the fish. Local treatment with ointments or with dyes such as malachite green or methylene blue in the water is completely useless for curing the infected fish but may help to prevent transmission of the disease. Pop-eye and dropsy can also be caused by advanced bacterial infections.
Considering the number of bacteria which can infect humans, it would be surprising indeed if only these few recognized groups are the sole cause of fish bacterial infections. Other bacteria in the author's personal experience falling into none of the above described categories can also cause disease. These may be less pathogenic but attack fish in a generally weakened condition. Bacteria such as these are known as opportunists. Aquarium fish will also be adversely affected and weakened by cloudy water which generally contains vast numbers of usually harmless bacteria.
The treatment for bacterial infections requires the use of antibiotic in the aquarium water which will be absorbed by the fish and which will reach the internal areas of infection. The tetracycline antibiotics are generally effective and are sold under various trade names. The forms of the drugs intended for human consumption can sometimes be used in aquarium water. Do not use any oral liquids or suspensions which may contain flavoring and sugar. This may result in giving rise to bacterial infestations in the water worse than the disease being treated. The best form to use is a capsule of pure drug which can be emptied into the aquarium water. Some forms of these drugs will yellow the water and cause the formation of scum and foam on the surface. Penicillin in its usual forms is effective against only a limited number of bacteria. A newer form of Penicillin, Ampicillin, has a much wider range of effectiveness and has been used by many people with considerable success. This drug is non-toxic to fish in high concentrations and is colorless. The recommended dose is 50 mg. per gallon of water for both the Tetracyclines and Ampicillin.
The features which most bacterial infections have in common are ulcers (open sores) on the skin, fins and mouth, internal abscesses, and increase mucus on the skin and gills. These skin ulcers are like the top of an iceberg in that they give only a clue to the marked infection inside the body of the fish. Local treatment with ointments or with dyes such as malachite green or methylene blue in the water is completely useless for curing the infected fish but may help to prevent transmission of the disease. Pop-eye and dropsy can also be caused by advanced bacterial infections.
Considering the number of bacteria which can infect humans, it would be surprising indeed if only these few recognized groups are the sole cause of fish bacterial infections. Other bacteria in the author's personal experience falling into none of the above described categories can also cause disease. These may be less pathogenic but attack fish in a generally weakened condition. Bacteria such as these are known as opportunists. Aquarium fish will also be adversely affected and weakened by cloudy water which generally contains vast numbers of usually harmless bacteria.
The treatment for bacterial infections requires the use of antibiotic in the aquarium water which will be absorbed by the fish and which will reach the internal areas of infection. The tetracycline antibiotics are generally effective and are sold under various trade names. The forms of the drugs intended for human consumption can sometimes be used in aquarium water. Do not use any oral liquids or suspensions which may contain flavoring and sugar. This may result in giving rise to bacterial infestations in the water worse than the disease being treated. The best form to use is a capsule of pure drug which can be emptied into the aquarium water. Some forms of these drugs will yellow the water and cause the formation of scum and foam on the surface. Penicillin in its usual forms is effective against only a limited number of bacteria. A newer form of Penicillin, Ampicillin, has a much wider range of effectiveness and has been used by many people with considerable success. This drug is non-toxic to fish in high concentrations and is colorless. The recommended dose is 50 mg. per gallon of water for both the Tetracyclines and Ampicillin.
Furunculosis Disease
 |
| Furunculosis on tropical fish |
Symptoms
The disease manifests itself with ulcer-like sores on the body of the fish. It usually starts on the caudal peduncle, but it can break out anywhere. Most commonly the sores might appear on the bases of the fins and this leads many to suspect that the disease is a finrot. Fortunately the treatment of the two diseases is the same.
In general this disease might be classified as a blood poisoning (septicemia) as the blood transports the bacteria to all parts of the fish's body where they gather in some small blood vessel (usually the capillaries), mass together, reproduce and destroy all the tissues about them. The disease in this stage looks like very small red marks under the skin of the fish and most people think the fish has bruised itself. Soon afterwards, a boil forms which is filled with pus, blood and broken down bits of tissue. When these boils break, they form ulcers and the pus from the boil is liberated into the water where the bacteria can attack the other fishes. Very small fishes usually die before the boils can break since the disease is so rampant inside the fish that it dies of internal disorders.
The bacterium which causes the disease is known as Bacterium salmonicida and was first described by two German trout workers, Emmerich and Weibel in 1894. The organism measures about 3 microns in length and has rounded ends. Bacteriologically it is Gram negative, nonmotile and nonsporulating. When grown in an agar medium it discolors the medium a light tan.
Treatment
A simple treatment is the addition of a sulfa drug (sulfamerazine) to the food of the fish. About 500 mg. per ounce of food is sufficiently strong to combat the disease. Fishes should be kept on the medicated food for at least 30 days.
The use of Aureomycin and Terramycin factor in most fish foods has made the disease easily controllable; raw Terramycin, 500 mg. per 15 gallon aquarium, one day per week, controls the infectious aspect of the disease. All aquaria which contained diseased fishes should be thoroughly sterilized prior to reuse. Potassium permanganate is about the best disinfectant to use.
Disease Prevention
In fish as in humans it is often far easier to prevent a disease from developing than to treat an advanced illness. The most important factors contributing to disease are:
Crowding
This is not an actual cause of disease but contributes to the rapid spread of any infection. This occurs because of a number of effects, including a shortage of oxygen dissolved in the water, excess waste products, generally weakened fish, and the obvious fact that the fish are closer together in a compact area and infectious organisms have a short and easy path from one fish to the other. The hobbyist should realize how abnormal an aquarium environment is to a fish whose natural surrounding are a lake, river or stream.
Overfeeding
This contributes to disease not so much from having the fish actually gorge themselves, but because uneaten food on the bottom of the tank will rot and pollute the water. In a tank with coarse gravel the fine food particles gradually drift into the deeper layers of gravel and may also contribute to rotting the plant roots. Occasionally fish will actually overeat and may show obvious distress. This is most likely to happen if very coarse particles of dried food are fed which may swell after they are eaten and actually obstruct the fish.
Inadequate Diet
Fishes maintained only on poor quality dried foods such as wafer foods will be stunted, weakened and subject to a variety of infections.
Water Changes
Approximately ten to twenty percent of the water in a tank should be changed weekly under ideal conditions. This prevents the build-up of excess nitrogenous wastes and will help keep the entire tank in good condition. In hard water areas this routine will also prevent the build-up of excessive hardness. Rapid changes in temperature, pH, or hardness will have a weakening effect on fish. Most fish will do well at a pH of about 7 and can survive in a range from 6 to 8. A rapid change from 6 to 8, however, will bring on immediate signs of distress. Tropical aquarium fishes do well at a temperature of about 75°F and can tolerate temperatures from 65 to 90°F or higher if the changes are made gradually. Fishes in a large body of water can tolerate a surprisingly low temperature, probably because of the longer period of time the water takes to cool.
Small quantities of water can be added to any tank directly from the tap if the temperature is approximately that of the aquarium, without any de-chlorination or aging necessary. If all of the water is to be changed or if a new aquarium is to be set up the water should be aged overnight before the fish are added. This allows the chlorine in the tap water to dissipate of its own accord and also allows excess air dissolved in the water to decrease. This process can be sped up by using commercial anti chlorine compounds available in aquarium shops, using recommended amounts. In some parts of the country tap water may be used without aging but the hobbyist should experiment with his local water before trying this with valuable fish.
New Additions
Most hobbyist have had the unfortunate experience of introducing new fish, plants, snails, or accessories into an established tank and noticing the sudden onslaught of disease. Ideally, new fish should be quarantined for a week or two in a separate tank while waiting for the possible development of signs of any infection the fish may be carrying. Once precaution is to treat the fish for parasites even though none are apparent. This may be done by using a formalin dip. Some hobbyists also routinely treat their quarantine tank with acriflavine or malachite green. The new plants may be decontaminated using commercial products available from aquarium supply stores. The question of snails, clams, and mussels is an open one. These animals can serve as hosts for a variety of parasites, some of which may affect aquarium fish.
Great care should be taken with materials which were not specifically intended for aquarium use such as homemade spawning mops, old porcelain ornaments, or rocks of unknown condition picked up in the field. If such items are to be used, it is safest to test them in a separate tank with inexpensive fish.
Contamination
The careful hobbyist will reserve a special net for any tank containing diseased fish, and will either sterilized it before using it on healthy fish, or destroy it. The aquarist's hands should always be washed after handling a diseased tank.
Poisoning
Fish are very susceptible to poisoning by many insecticides which may be used around the house. These should be avoided altogether in the fish room if possible, especially if they are in the form of sprays. Fresh paint may also be a source of toxic vapor for a period of hours after application. The safest course, if a nearby room is to be painted, is to cover the tank with several payers of paper and seal it with tape round the edges. Some of teh newer paints dry rapidly and are less likely to create problems.
Cleanliness and Filtration
There are two ways of setting up a large aquarium. The most natural situation is to have a large unfiltered tank which is well planted and contains only a few fish. This should require no aeration. Over the course of time a thick layer of mulm builds up on the bottom. This is combination of fish waste and fragments of deteriorating plant leaves. A tank of this type has a natural appearance and should be left alone without frequent changes of the fish population. The number of fish that can be kept in this way is limited.
Most hobbyists prefer a filtered tank with a larger potential fish population and a clean bottom free of mulm. Both outside and bottom filters are equally effective in removing particulate material from the water. Bottom filters have the additional feature of supplying effective aeration as well as filtration. Subsand filters work on a different principle and draw the fine particulate matter down into the gravel where an aerobic (oxygen-loving) bacterial culture builds up and breaks down the filtered material into harmless compounds. This type of filtration is usually effective and will keep a tank crystal clear in most cases but it is not too effective in the case of large, particularly dirty fish like goldfish. The subsand filter also seems to have an inhibiting effect on plant growth. A bad feature about this filter is that once the filter is established it cannot safely be turned off. The aerobic bacteria will diet and anaerobic bacteria which can live in the gravel without the constant flow of fresh oxygenated water will rapidly take over and may putrify the water.
A similar effect can occur if antibiotics are used in a tank with a functioning subsand filter. In this case the aerobic bacteria may be killed by the antibiotic and subsequent cloudiness can occur. A thick layer of gravel must be used with a subsand filter to make the filter effective. Other tanks need a layer of gravel only think enough to adequately root their plants. An even thinner layer of gravel can be used if the aquarium plants are grown in individual pots. This practice has an additional advantage in enabling the hobbyist to move the plants for cleaning the tank or for netting fish.
Crowding
This is not an actual cause of disease but contributes to the rapid spread of any infection. This occurs because of a number of effects, including a shortage of oxygen dissolved in the water, excess waste products, generally weakened fish, and the obvious fact that the fish are closer together in a compact area and infectious organisms have a short and easy path from one fish to the other. The hobbyist should realize how abnormal an aquarium environment is to a fish whose natural surrounding are a lake, river or stream.
Overfeeding
This contributes to disease not so much from having the fish actually gorge themselves, but because uneaten food on the bottom of the tank will rot and pollute the water. In a tank with coarse gravel the fine food particles gradually drift into the deeper layers of gravel and may also contribute to rotting the plant roots. Occasionally fish will actually overeat and may show obvious distress. This is most likely to happen if very coarse particles of dried food are fed which may swell after they are eaten and actually obstruct the fish.
Inadequate Diet
Fishes maintained only on poor quality dried foods such as wafer foods will be stunted, weakened and subject to a variety of infections.
Water Changes
Approximately ten to twenty percent of the water in a tank should be changed weekly under ideal conditions. This prevents the build-up of excess nitrogenous wastes and will help keep the entire tank in good condition. In hard water areas this routine will also prevent the build-up of excessive hardness. Rapid changes in temperature, pH, or hardness will have a weakening effect on fish. Most fish will do well at a pH of about 7 and can survive in a range from 6 to 8. A rapid change from 6 to 8, however, will bring on immediate signs of distress. Tropical aquarium fishes do well at a temperature of about 75°F and can tolerate temperatures from 65 to 90°F or higher if the changes are made gradually. Fishes in a large body of water can tolerate a surprisingly low temperature, probably because of the longer period of time the water takes to cool.
Small quantities of water can be added to any tank directly from the tap if the temperature is approximately that of the aquarium, without any de-chlorination or aging necessary. If all of the water is to be changed or if a new aquarium is to be set up the water should be aged overnight before the fish are added. This allows the chlorine in the tap water to dissipate of its own accord and also allows excess air dissolved in the water to decrease. This process can be sped up by using commercial anti chlorine compounds available in aquarium shops, using recommended amounts. In some parts of the country tap water may be used without aging but the hobbyist should experiment with his local water before trying this with valuable fish.
New Additions
Most hobbyist have had the unfortunate experience of introducing new fish, plants, snails, or accessories into an established tank and noticing the sudden onslaught of disease. Ideally, new fish should be quarantined for a week or two in a separate tank while waiting for the possible development of signs of any infection the fish may be carrying. Once precaution is to treat the fish for parasites even though none are apparent. This may be done by using a formalin dip. Some hobbyists also routinely treat their quarantine tank with acriflavine or malachite green. The new plants may be decontaminated using commercial products available from aquarium supply stores. The question of snails, clams, and mussels is an open one. These animals can serve as hosts for a variety of parasites, some of which may affect aquarium fish.
Great care should be taken with materials which were not specifically intended for aquarium use such as homemade spawning mops, old porcelain ornaments, or rocks of unknown condition picked up in the field. If such items are to be used, it is safest to test them in a separate tank with inexpensive fish.
Contamination
The careful hobbyist will reserve a special net for any tank containing diseased fish, and will either sterilized it before using it on healthy fish, or destroy it. The aquarist's hands should always be washed after handling a diseased tank.
Poisoning
Fish are very susceptible to poisoning by many insecticides which may be used around the house. These should be avoided altogether in the fish room if possible, especially if they are in the form of sprays. Fresh paint may also be a source of toxic vapor for a period of hours after application. The safest course, if a nearby room is to be painted, is to cover the tank with several payers of paper and seal it with tape round the edges. Some of teh newer paints dry rapidly and are less likely to create problems.
Cleanliness and Filtration
There are two ways of setting up a large aquarium. The most natural situation is to have a large unfiltered tank which is well planted and contains only a few fish. This should require no aeration. Over the course of time a thick layer of mulm builds up on the bottom. This is combination of fish waste and fragments of deteriorating plant leaves. A tank of this type has a natural appearance and should be left alone without frequent changes of the fish population. The number of fish that can be kept in this way is limited.
Most hobbyists prefer a filtered tank with a larger potential fish population and a clean bottom free of mulm. Both outside and bottom filters are equally effective in removing particulate material from the water. Bottom filters have the additional feature of supplying effective aeration as well as filtration. Subsand filters work on a different principle and draw the fine particulate matter down into the gravel where an aerobic (oxygen-loving) bacterial culture builds up and breaks down the filtered material into harmless compounds. This type of filtration is usually effective and will keep a tank crystal clear in most cases but it is not too effective in the case of large, particularly dirty fish like goldfish. The subsand filter also seems to have an inhibiting effect on plant growth. A bad feature about this filter is that once the filter is established it cannot safely be turned off. The aerobic bacteria will diet and anaerobic bacteria which can live in the gravel without the constant flow of fresh oxygenated water will rapidly take over and may putrify the water.
A similar effect can occur if antibiotics are used in a tank with a functioning subsand filter. In this case the aerobic bacteria may be killed by the antibiotic and subsequent cloudiness can occur. A thick layer of gravel must be used with a subsand filter to make the filter effective. Other tanks need a layer of gravel only think enough to adequately root their plants. An even thinner layer of gravel can be used if the aquarium plants are grown in individual pots. This practice has an additional advantage in enabling the hobbyist to move the plants for cleaning the tank or for netting fish.
Popeyes
 |
| Popeye Disease |
The bacterial infection which manifests itself in the popeye (eyes of the infected fish bulge from their sockets) is caused by more than a single organism. Dr. Willianmson concluded that a single bacterium alone could not very readily cause the disease. Antibiotics are of no value as a specific cure. Diseased fishes should be isolated and observed for a few weeks. Feedings of live foods, no overcrowding, and the addition of two drops of 5% methylene blue to each gallon of water is one treatment which is fairly satisfactory. There is no know specific cure.
A variation of the popeye disease, "Gas Bubble Disease," was described by Marsh and Gorman. This disease rarely hits fishes kept in captivity unless the fish are subjected to an overly aerated aquarium. If an air release is working too furiously and the water becomes supersaturated with air there is a tendency for the tissues of the fish to become saturated with nitrogen gas. The loose connective tissue around the eye of the fish is especially liable to this phenomenon. Oxygen gas is also the cause of this illness and the shipment of fishes in the old pressure-type cans, where oxygen is forced into a sealed can under pressure, often illustrates this point. Prevention is the cure for this type of malady.
Another variation of the disease is when the orbit of the eye becomes heavily infested with the larvae of certain trematode worms. Again the disease in this form is cured only by preventing the aquarium from getting so filthy that the worms are able to propagate in such large numbers.
The most common cause of popeye is probably the infection and degeneration of the liver due to a dietary deficiency. This is especially true of fishes maintained in hard water. In this form the fish usually has bulging eyes and a bulging belly from an accumulation of serous fluid in the body cavity. Sometimes one reads of curing fish by tapping this fluid from the body. This is rarely of any value. If the cause of the disease is dietary, the only cure is to add enough cod liver meal to the fishes' diet to offset the dietary shortage.
Columnaris Disease
Columnaris disease has been known to aquarists by many names. Since it so often attacks Black Mollies, it has been referred to as "Black Molly Disease." Others call it "Body Fungus," "Mouth Fungus," "Slime Disease" and "Body Rot." It is preferred that the disease be known by the organism causing it.
Scientifically the disease has been known by several names. When Davis first described it in 1922 he named it Bacillus columnaris (pronounced ba-sill-uscolumn-na-ris), a more exacting description was impossible at that time as he was unable to isolate the causative organism in a pure culture to study it more closely. It took 23 years before one of Davis' students Laura Garnjobst, was able to isolate the organism and recognize it as a myxobacterium. The name was therefore changed to Cytophaga columnaris (sy-toe-fay-ga) by Garnjobst. Further study has resulted in the disease being known as Chondrococcus columnaris (kahn-dro-cock-us), a slime bacterium.
Range of the Disease
The disease may attack nearly all the freshwater tropical fishes. There is evidence that it is more rampant upon those species of fishes whose natural environment is in temperate water (45-65°F), but are being maintained in a tropical environment (72-85°F.) Garnjobst found the optimum temperature for the organism's growth was between 77 and 88°F, roughly the temperature of tropical aquaria. Mollies are fishes that ordinarily inhabit temperate waters, but once they are netted and shipped north as aquarium fishes, they are maintained in warmer water. It is this bacterium which is most often responsible for the infection in Mollies and other live-bearing fishes which are raise in Florida waters.
Symptoms of the Disease
Columnaris disease manifests itself quite emphatically. Beginning with a fading, bluish-white body spot, the disease spreads over the body of the fish until there are several large patches of a mucous-like slime covering the body of the victim. Fins become closed and frayed, the fish may begin to shimmy (usually most live-bearers begin shimmying before the infection has reached this stage), and finally they die.
On catfish (scaleless) and less commonly on other fishes, there is a reddish edge to the infectious ring. This ring is due to hyperemia.
Identify the Disease
Microscopic examination is about the only sure way of observing the bacterium. Scrape a bit of material from the infected area, and prepare it on a slide for high power microscopic examination. The bacterium is a long, rod-like organism about half a micron in thickness and from 5 to 10 microns in length. The organism can move with snake-like motion, spasmodically. One of the most characteristic movements is to turn one end slowly in a circle while the other remains stationary and forms a pivot on which the entire rod revolves.
How Do Fishes Get the Disease
The bacterium usually gains entrance to the host through an injury. They are found most concentrated in the connective tissues, but are also found throughout the epithelial and other tissues. Once they attack the dermis of the fish, the scales above the site of infection usually fall off. One of the most ordinary points of infection of tropical fishes is the mouth. Most fishes shipped from Florida before the widespread use of plastic bags had injuries to their mouths from the rough linings of the fish cans. In 99 cases out of a hundred these fishes would become infected with columnaris disease and their mouths and lips would become white with the infection. The hobbyists know this infection as "Mouth Fungus;" actually this is not a fungus infection at all. In time the disease actually eats away the tissues of the lips and mouth and the fish dies.
The disease is fairly infectious, though healthy fishes are easily kept free of the disease. Most livebearers get it especially after having been moved into fresh water, or having their water changed for other reasons. Fishes freshly arrived from another locale are also very susceptible to this infection. Usually the disease will strike at a whole tankful of the same kind of fish, pointing out that conditions in the aquarium are not proper. Fortunately, there is a very simple, positive cure.
Treatment of the Disease
Tetracycline (Tetracyn or Terramycin being equally good), a product manufactured by the Chas. Pfizer Co., is practically a specific cure for this dread disease. If the 250 mg. capsule form of Tetracycline is used, add the powder from 4 capsules, making one gram, to some warm water, dissolve the powder and add it to the aquarium in which the fishes are being treated. This dosage seems equally effective for aquaria containing from 2 to 12 gallons of water. For larger tanks add 100 mg. per gallon.
There is a form of Terramycin now available which is already dissolved and has a strength of 25 mg. of Terramycin per cc. This is a superior product for dealer, importers, collectors, etc., as there is no waste and it is simple to administer.
The treatment should be administered daily, for three days, with a 50% change in the water every day. Be sure to use water that has been aged and which is of the same pH and temperature as that in which the fishes are being treated. This treatment is 100% effective if applied immediately upon recognition of the disease.
Columnaris disease is so common with imported fishes and livebearers that most dealers and jobbers of aquarium fishes add 500 mg. of Tetracyn per 10 gallon aquarium as a prophylaxis.
Scientifically the disease has been known by several names. When Davis first described it in 1922 he named it Bacillus columnaris (pronounced ba-sill-uscolumn-na-ris), a more exacting description was impossible at that time as he was unable to isolate the causative organism in a pure culture to study it more closely. It took 23 years before one of Davis' students Laura Garnjobst, was able to isolate the organism and recognize it as a myxobacterium. The name was therefore changed to Cytophaga columnaris (sy-toe-fay-ga) by Garnjobst. Further study has resulted in the disease being known as Chondrococcus columnaris (kahn-dro-cock-us), a slime bacterium.
Range of the Disease
The disease may attack nearly all the freshwater tropical fishes. There is evidence that it is more rampant upon those species of fishes whose natural environment is in temperate water (45-65°F), but are being maintained in a tropical environment (72-85°F.) Garnjobst found the optimum temperature for the organism's growth was between 77 and 88°F, roughly the temperature of tropical aquaria. Mollies are fishes that ordinarily inhabit temperate waters, but once they are netted and shipped north as aquarium fishes, they are maintained in warmer water. It is this bacterium which is most often responsible for the infection in Mollies and other live-bearing fishes which are raise in Florida waters.
Symptoms of the Disease
Columnaris disease manifests itself quite emphatically. Beginning with a fading, bluish-white body spot, the disease spreads over the body of the fish until there are several large patches of a mucous-like slime covering the body of the victim. Fins become closed and frayed, the fish may begin to shimmy (usually most live-bearers begin shimmying before the infection has reached this stage), and finally they die.
On catfish (scaleless) and less commonly on other fishes, there is a reddish edge to the infectious ring. This ring is due to hyperemia.
Identify the Disease
Microscopic examination is about the only sure way of observing the bacterium. Scrape a bit of material from the infected area, and prepare it on a slide for high power microscopic examination. The bacterium is a long, rod-like organism about half a micron in thickness and from 5 to 10 microns in length. The organism can move with snake-like motion, spasmodically. One of the most characteristic movements is to turn one end slowly in a circle while the other remains stationary and forms a pivot on which the entire rod revolves.
How Do Fishes Get the Disease
The bacterium usually gains entrance to the host through an injury. They are found most concentrated in the connective tissues, but are also found throughout the epithelial and other tissues. Once they attack the dermis of the fish, the scales above the site of infection usually fall off. One of the most ordinary points of infection of tropical fishes is the mouth. Most fishes shipped from Florida before the widespread use of plastic bags had injuries to their mouths from the rough linings of the fish cans. In 99 cases out of a hundred these fishes would become infected with columnaris disease and their mouths and lips would become white with the infection. The hobbyists know this infection as "Mouth Fungus;" actually this is not a fungus infection at all. In time the disease actually eats away the tissues of the lips and mouth and the fish dies.
The disease is fairly infectious, though healthy fishes are easily kept free of the disease. Most livebearers get it especially after having been moved into fresh water, or having their water changed for other reasons. Fishes freshly arrived from another locale are also very susceptible to this infection. Usually the disease will strike at a whole tankful of the same kind of fish, pointing out that conditions in the aquarium are not proper. Fortunately, there is a very simple, positive cure.
Treatment of the Disease
Tetracycline (Tetracyn or Terramycin being equally good), a product manufactured by the Chas. Pfizer Co., is practically a specific cure for this dread disease. If the 250 mg. capsule form of Tetracycline is used, add the powder from 4 capsules, making one gram, to some warm water, dissolve the powder and add it to the aquarium in which the fishes are being treated. This dosage seems equally effective for aquaria containing from 2 to 12 gallons of water. For larger tanks add 100 mg. per gallon.
There is a form of Terramycin now available which is already dissolved and has a strength of 25 mg. of Terramycin per cc. This is a superior product for dealer, importers, collectors, etc., as there is no waste and it is simple to administer.
The treatment should be administered daily, for three days, with a 50% change in the water every day. Be sure to use water that has been aged and which is of the same pH and temperature as that in which the fishes are being treated. This treatment is 100% effective if applied immediately upon recognition of the disease.
Columnaris disease is so common with imported fishes and livebearers that most dealers and jobbers of aquarium fishes add 500 mg. of Tetracyn per 10 gallon aquarium as a prophylaxis.
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